Nobody

Politics, ethics, travel, book & film reviews, and a log of Starbucks across this great nation.

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Location: California, United States

Saturday, October 07, 2006

Nobody 667

Sunday, October 8, 2006
Nobody # 667

Nobody Asked Me But:

I am sure that sometimes you think I am too disdainful of USC, but remember – this was the university that would not accept Steven Spielberg into their film school.<<<

“If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools,” - Rudyard Kipling

Let us hope that Americans are not fools nor fooled by these two, the KING and PRINCE of hypocrisy: “Top GOP leaders -- including House Speaker Dennis Hastert, of Illinois, and Majority Leader John Boehner, of Ohio -- have accused the Democrats of knowing about Foley's correspondences with teen pages, and waiting to release them until it was politically advantageous.”

And while on the subject of the Prince, Steve Lopez in his LA Times column writes that in light of the nature of the scandal, “I don't even want to know how to pronounce Boehner's name.”<<<

But enough of that: return with me to the United Kingdom.

As I did last week, I will begin with something from Oxford. Late one afternoon as we were heading for our bus stop, we saw a Bobby running after someone on a bike. He was losing ground fast so he stopped another young man, and, ignoring his protest, commandeered his bike to continue the chase. Sorry, but I don’t know how it all ended.<<<

Last week, I failed to mention our delightful train ride from London to Edinburgh. We traveled first class, facing one another with a table between and no one occupying the reserved seats next to us. It was both relaxing and totally fascinating to sit, sipping on my coffee, reading occasionally but mostly just watching as we passed nuclear plants and castles, grazing land and the North Sea.

On Monday, it was good-bye (with regrets) to Edinburgh and on to York. Actually the good-bye wasn’t that easy as we managed to get lost while trying to leave the city. We stopped to ask directions three times and each person was gracious and gave specific directions. Then we would pull away, turn to one another and say, “what did he/she say?”

But we made it, and once on the highway the drive was easy. Our first destination was Alnwick where Barb wanted to visit the famous gardens, and I wanted to take some pictures of the castle (left) where Harry P. learned to fly on his Nimbus broomstick and Helen Mirren ruled as HBO’s “Elizabeth I.” We got lucky. One stop included both, so Barb toured the garden and I the castle. We could have used more time at the garden, they even had one of the world’s few poisonous plants gardens, but a little was a whole lot better than nothing.

Our second stop in Alnwick was at Barter Books, a cool used bookstore in an old train station.

We arrived in York at about 4:30 to find Tom waiting. After checking into our hotel he took us on a preview walking tour. We had heard that York was a great city to visit and it was. He showed us the highlights including the magnificent York Minster Cathedral. York Minster was built over a period of time spanning the 12th to the 15th Century and is the largest Gothic church in England. York itself was the northern most Roman city in Britain. This is where Constantine was proclaimed Roman emperor, and there are several statues of him in the city. (left)

We were all craving Mexican food. Barb had googled one before we left home and Tom had scouted it out. So we dined Mexican in York and it was surprisingly good.

The next morning I had coffee in the York Train Station, which was so close to our hotel that it seemed almost a part. Then we met Tom for breakfast and set off to explore. It is a great, fascinating, walled city with narrow streets, small shops and historic sights. (Even a store with Baskin Robbin’s ice cream, and you know how far back that goes.) I added two new Starbuck’s, one where Tom and I took a break by an upstairs window while Barb explored several stores and a second that goes on my all-time favorites list. It was in an old bank building with a domed ceiling - just way cool! Tom got a little tired of the shopping and took off for train station pictures and the hotel. Barb had great ice cream in Thurston’s and then we went to the library for computer and reading time while waiting to meet Tom for the Evensong at the York Minster.

Barb had wanted to attend an Evensong the whole trip, and we could not have found a more beautiful or historic place. We thought it would be simply music, but it turned out to be a religious service with ceremony and music. Still it was well worth our time, even though my mind wondered to how ironic it would be if I were to drop dead while in church.

Afterwards we went to another Barb-researched place for dinner. It was an old restaurant called Russell’s Carvery where roast beef, pork, turkey or lamb or, if one chooses, portions of 3 of the 4. Both the food and the trifle were excellent.<<<

Lost midst Shakespeare and the pottery. The next morning we parted, Tom heading back north and we to Barnsley in the Southern Cotswolds. My wife had googled directions but I had looked at an AAA map and overruled Google. My bad! Needless to say, we again became hopelessly lost and a 4-hour trip took closer to 8. We did find Denby however and had a good times drooling over pottery that we had no way to bring, or ship, home. We also found Stratford-upon-Avon but, for two reasons, we couldn’t stop. First, there were far more tourists than parking places and second because we were so lost that we could not tell Stratford from Avon. By this time Barb was shedding tears of frustration and I was cussing, or perhaps it was the other way around, but we FINALLY found Barnsley, which is a picture-book English country town.

Our first impression of Barnsley House B&B, (below left) our most costly hotel, was very favorable but it turned out to be perhaps our least favorite. We battled millions of bugs, had the worst of our complimentary breakfasts and had to deal with a rather surly staff. Maybe we are not cut out for the English countryside.

The restaurant at our place was very fancy and very expensive, so we walked a beautiful block to a pub that they also own. Barb liked it but not as much as I did. To me it was the model for country pub-restaurants. The chicken was excellent and the ravioli OK.

Thursday, Sept. 14th – The day without lights. It was raining in the morning and we had no power at night, but still had a nice day. After a stop in Cirencester, we drove on back roads where we saw the ruins of a 3rd century Roman Villa, a farm store, 2 deer, triple-figure pheasants and a huge flock of sheep being herded home by 3 sheep dogs and a man on a tractor. Next we drove into Bilbury, another prototypical English countryside town, – thatched roofed cottages, etc. We found a neat pub, The Catherine Wheel, which turned out to be two 15th century buildings now joined by a bar. I had an excellent mushroom soup and a good shrimp curry and Barb a pork chop, good but too fatty. We met a charming old couple at the next table. They must have been in their mid-eighties but still drove those narrow roads to their regular eating place. They called the next day to, I assume, invite us to visit, but we missed their call. We returned to our dark B&B - the electricity was out - and sat with candles until bedtime.

The next day, Friday, was Stonehenge (left) and Bath day. As usual the getting there took us longer than expected - for one thing, we stopped and mailed home a package of dirty clothes to make room in our suitcase for new purchases. As I write this, the box still hasn’t arrived, so customs must still be checking through our dirty sox. Stonehenge was totally moving and awe-inspiring. I could have spent hours alternating between walking around looking at it and just sitting to take it all in.

Sadly, our time in Bath was much too short – equal parts late arrival and being so concerned about getting lost that we wanted to make sure we left in time to get back to Barnsley before dark. Our worry proved groundless because our return took much less time then expected. But we did get lucky in Bath. We had no clue as to where we were, but the beat up lot in which we parked turned out to be a short walk to Sally Linn’s where I lunched on one of her famous bun sandwich (roast beef with horseradish sauce) and Barb, welsh rarebit. I finished with a great apple pie with clotted cream. It was incredible eating at a place that Charles Dickens used to patronize.

Luckily, the Roman baths were close by so we had an all-to-quick look. I “took the waters” along with some excellent directions from the man selling them by the glass.

After stopping for a break at our B&B while I took some pictures of the town, we returned to The Catherine Wheel for a light dinner.

After Barnsley we were a little tired and sort of wishing that it was time to come home. As it turned out, we are very thankful that the wish did not come true. We loved our2 ½ days in Oxford. Everything and everywhere was so good that we had no favorite part of the trip, but Oxford was right there with the best.

To get us off to a good start, the drive was easy! We arrived at our hotel (Paramount Oxford) at 10:30. It was too early to check in, but they stored our bags and gave us directions to the bus stop a half-block away. The busses ran frequently, it was 10-minutes to downtown and, except for our trip to turn the car in, (Hooray!) they became our exclusive means of transportation.

As usual we hopped on a tour bus to get acquainted with the city. We made its complete circle and then stayed on to return to our destination – Alice’s House. This shop is where the Alice that Lewis Caroll took to Wonderland used to go for candy. She was fascinated by the voice of the little old lady that ran it, so Caroll turned the lady into the mouse shopkeeper in the book.

A short walk from Alice’s house and even more appealing was George and Danver, an ice cream store so good (raspberry – J, and dime vanilla - B) that I didn’t think it could be bettered anyplace but Fosselman’s. I was wrong.

Across the street was one of Oxford’s 30 colleges, Christ Church whose alumni include John Locke, W. H. Auden and Lewis Carroll. It also housed the Harry Potter and the Hogwarts kids but only for the stair-climbing scenes. Close by was University College where the brilliant, charming and talented Bill Clinton was a Rhodes Scholar. We continued our exploration - the town is incredible with all its gothic spires and the Thames running through its center. At one point I was forced to take a drink break at my 12th UK Starbuck’s.

We ate dinner at a small pub down an alley close to Border’s in the town center. My lamb curry was excellent and Barb’s cheeseburger very good, although the meat, while tasty, was more the consistency of meatloaf.

After this we walked a bit more, and I tried on several cool tee shirts at Debenhams, none of which fit. Except for a store called Fat Face, almost all size XX in the UK runs too small for a large-“chested” man like me.

The next morning we had the complimentary breakfast at our hotel, which was not fancy but clean and comfortable – and so convenient. The food, except for the fried bread, was only all right. Another black and white muffin from Edinburgh would have been nice. Returning to town, we again walked and explored. (I explored Starbuck’s number 13) We passed the gates of Lincoln College and, although it was closed, Barb persuaded the woman at the gate to let us walk around the grounds. Falling for Barb’s charms, the lady did even better – she gave us a small tour of the beautiful grassy quads (left) and a peek inside the dining hall. Barb, who couldn’t believe they had one, wanted to see the student’s pub but that was closed and off limits.

We then (surprise) took an ice cream break – I had delicious Blackberry Ripple from a place called the Buttery and Barb ‘s Café Latte from Thurston’s, (the same as one she had in York) was almost as good.

By then it was time to see “The Queen.” We started in regular seats but, again, my wife came through. She found out that the balcony seats were much larger and reserved, so we exchanged tickets and moved upstairs.

Afterwards we had a disappointing dinner at an Italian restaurant that looked really neat. It wasn’t bad, just no better than average.

Monday, Sept 18 – Our last day. Before we returned the rental car we drove to Blenheim Palace built by Queen Anne for John Churchill, the First Duke of Marlborough, after he defeated the French at the Battle of Blenheim. It is thought to be the finest Baroque building in England.

There have been ten Dukes of Marlborough and the ninth married young Consuelo Vanderbilt, so beautiful that playwright Sir James Barrie, author of Peter Pan, wrote: "I would stand all day in the street to see Consuelo Marlborough get into her carriage." (She must have shown a bit of ankle.)

As I heard this story on our tour, I couldn’t help but think of our trip last fall to North Carolina and our visit to the Vanderbilt estate, The Biltmore. Two incredible houses one on the Atlantic’s west side, one on its east, connected, if loosely, by this marriage – land and prestige joined to immense wealth.

It was in this house of his relatives that Winston Churchill was born while his mother was attending a party. And just down the road a mile or so Sir Winston is buried amongst the many Churchill-Marlboroughs. So we saw his birth room and his tomb.

Once again, our time was short. We drove to the place where we could turn in our Hertz rental (getting lost only once) and taxied down town to another great bookstore, Blackwell.

Afterwards we went to the marketplace, a cool mixture of fresh food and shops, where we shared an avocado and cheese sandwich and watched the filming of a few scenes of “Inspector Morse.” Still hungry we returned to George and Danver. Alas, they had no raspberry on this day, so we both had the delicious dime vanilla.

While Barb returned to Debenhams, where she bought two of the tee shirts that wouldn’t fit me, I walked, for pictures, to the pub, The Eagle And The Child - where J. R. Tolkin, C. S. Lewis and others used to hang out and share their latest manuscripts. Alas, still not having satisfied my unholy desires, I returned to the Buttery for a double-dish of the same blackberries and cream that I had the day before. I ate it at a table in the street, and IT WAS THE BEST ICE CREAM I HAVE EVER EATEN!

I met Barb and we returned to the hotel to pack for our long journey home.

Tuesday morning we (Barb) finished packing and took a taxi to the bus station for the trip to Heathrow. Security and our wait was uneventful – nice terminal - but the mob jammed up for loading was something about which the BAA could improve.

Flying home we outraced the sun, both taking off and landing in daylight. As I mentioned two weeks ago, the views from the plane window were unbelievable. The cloud cover lifted at the right time for us to see the east and west coasts of Greenland. We saw dozens of icebergs floating below as well as snow-capped mountains and glaciers. But not even the snows of Greenland were as spectacular as those on Baffin Island. (left)

If you have gotten this far, thanks for your patience. I wanted to share the wonder of it all.

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